There is nothing quite like staying with friends. When I stayed with Shelly and Ian they made me breakfast every day. They let me use their tennis court and their bikes. They introduced me to their kids and their horses. And they helped me to plan the perfect day of touring the wineries and restaurants of the surrounding Swan Valley.
But Shelly and Ian are not my friends; they are the owners of the White House bed and breakfast. And what a bed and breakfast it is. The White House is a truly spectacular home, with wooden floors, ancient fireplaces, gorgeous verandahs – and just one guest room. Or rather, suite of guest rooms. All of this was mine for the night: my own entrance and hallway, a lounge complete with piano, a dining room with a large fireplace, a double bedroom, a separate bathroom, an outside seating area.
I wasted no time in settling in to my new home. I made tea and sat on the verandah just outside the bedroom door as the sun set and then ran a bath in the clawfoot tub and began sinking into thoughts of which wineries I might try tomorrow.
I had no idea, frankly, but fortunately Shelly already had this all figured out for me and over a glass of wine she talked me through the valley. Giving me a map, she noted all sorts of things, from which wineries to visit to the spot where Captain James Stirling decided that he was going to build a brand new colony, and left me with enough recommendations to fill a week.
On one her recommendations was Sittella’s, just the other side of the river and accessed by footbridge, which I visited for lunch the next day. Here I did a fantastically informative tasting with cellar manager Shannon and dined on delicious red snapper washed down with a cracking shiraz. Shelly clearly knew what she was talking about.
Her other recommendations included the oldest two wineries in the valley: Houghton’s and Sandalford. I dutifully visited both and was not disappointed – at least, not by anything other than the fact I had to drive. The wines were fantastic and, in my amateur opinion, rivaled the wines of more famous Margaret River further south.
On my return to the house Ian and Shelly were keen to hear about my day and to tell me more about the history of the area. The Swan Valley is one of Western Australia’s oldest settled areas, with Guildford one of the state’s first three towns, along with Fremantle and Perth.
The house itself probably dates back about 100 years and it is lovely to be staying somewhere historic in a country where this can be rare. Antique furniture fills the rooms and the décor is in keeping with the age of the house. Even better, it reflects the fact that this is a house, with family portraits filling the walls and homely touches in every room. By the second night I am very much at home, ranging around the rooms as if I own the place – and certainly fantasizing that I do.
When it comes to time to leave, it is just like leaving a friend’s house. No impersonal speedy checkout here, we take our time saying goodbye and as I drive back onto the main road I am genuinely sorry to go. How often can you say that about a hotel?